Pakistani mountaineer Sajid Ali Sadpara has successfully summited Dhaulagiri, the world’s seventh highest mountain at 8,167 metres, without the use of supplemental oxygen or the support of high-altitude porters.
The historic ascent took place on Saturday and was confirmed by the Alpine Club of Pakistan. Dhaulagiri, located in Nepal, marked Sadpara’s ninth successful climb of a peak above 8,000 metres—each one achieved without bottled oxygen and without external assistance.
Sadpara began acclimatizing for the expedition on April 6, reaching the base camp and completing rotations up to Camp 3 before returning for the final summit push. The climb officially began on May 4, with a team of four Pakistani climbers.
According to Seven Summit Treks, the team set off from Camp IV at 6:15pm on Friday and reached the summit around 9:35am the next day. Their climb also marked the first confirmed summit of Dhaulagiri during the Spring 2025 climbing season. In preparation, ropes had been fixed up to 8,050 metres, and over 350 metres of rope were added during the final ascent.
At just 29, Sajid Sadpara continues to demonstrate remarkable stamina and commitment to high-altitude mountaineering. The Alpine Club praised his dedication, calling it a “historic milestone” for Pakistan and a testament to the nation’s climbing legacy.
This expedition was organized by Seven Summit Treks Nepal and Sabroso Pakistan, with technical equipment sponsored by Kailas.
Sadpara is the son of legendary climber Muhammad Ali Sadpara, who tragically perished during a winter K2 summit attempt in 2021. Sajid has since carried his father’s legacy forward, emerging as a symbol of Pakistan’s resilience and mountaineering excellence.
Karrar Haidri, Secretary of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, congratulated Sadpara and lauded the achievement as a proud moment for the country.
Before embarking on his final ascent, Sadpara told media that he was committed to climbing Dhaulagiri without supplemental oxygen or porter assistance—an increasingly rare feat in modern mountaineering.
He has already conquered major 8,000m peaks including Mount Everest, K2, Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum-I, and Gasherbrum-II. Notably, he summited both Gasherbrum peaks within three days and 18 hours—without oxygen.
In addition to his climbing achievements, Sadpara has taken part in several high-altitude rescue missions, including efforts on K2. His ultimate goal is to summit all 14 of the world’s peaks above 8,000 metres without oxygen—a dream he says is deeply connected to his father’s legacy.
Reflecting on his journey, he shared that mountaineering was more than a pursuit—it was his calling. “When you grow up in an environment where everything revolves around climbing, you naturally become a mountaineer,” he said, speaking about his father’s influence.
